Friday, August 20
Back to Uganda, where the border patrol relieved GP and GM of another $100 for not having a multiple entry visa. A long road left us reflecting on our experiences thus far..... on the road we see hundreds of pedestrians, millions of bananas (I suggested they be used as a means of exchange-- but then inflation would really skyrocket!), bicycles, and cattle. We see babies on backs, bananas on bicycles, and bicycle riders holding onto milk trucks. Farms without tractors or plows, small children without parents, rubbish without bins (in Uganda but NOT Rwanda). We also see logos, every new white pickup has the name of some NGO, most T- shirts have the name of someone or some institution (as people buy them used from our shipments), and shops as well as houses are painted (for free) with cell phone logos. Where else do people wear Yankees baseball caps having never heard of baseball? Uganda. It is surely more expensive to live and travel unlabeled, as then no one else is paying your way. Oh yes, we also see speed bumps ( humps) and dirt roads and bumpy roads, and sometimes, no roads at all. People, peddlers, policemen, and yes, POTHOLES!
These would not be bad if there were decent drivers-- speeding on the wrong side of a road up a hill= normal. Doing the above with 10 people in a 5 seat Honda when drunk= The life of a local taxi driver-- remember what we said about life expectancy?
Tuesday, August 23, 2011
Uganda to Rwanda-- no littering here!
Wednesday- Thursday, August 19-20
In Kabale, we met another of Sarah's friends, a local professor of Environmental Economics, Dr. Wilson, and were impressed by his deep convictions and his generosity. Whatever stereotypes of “African men” are out there-- we have found individuals to beat them all!
Enjoyment of the long lunch with Dr. Wilson left us a little late crossing into Rwanda, where moaning on Martha's part (and cash under the table) helped speed the immigration process (we found that back brace and cane were helpful here, as at Disney World and airports). As we switched to the other side of the road, Sarah became very serious and told us the Rwanda “rules:”
1.No mentioning of the president's name-- we didn't know it anyway
2.No mentioning of the two tribes involved in the Genocide-- we didn't know those either.
3.No littering-- and the thin police with huge machine guns all around ensured adherence
- --to the above our driver added
4.No bribery, and the worst one:
5.No partying in night clubs past midnight-- I guess everyone has a cross to bear!
Our accomodations (Kigali)) were VERY basic. Hotel prices here are exponential-- room= x; self contained room =x2 ; self contained room with hot water.... you get the picture. Thursday, we wasted half of the morning following three “would be” guides (whom we paid) and a bit too much petrol ( 3$ per litre!) to find the Kigali Genocide Memorial..
What can we say? In a nation of 7 million people, 1 million were slaughtered, 2 million were displaced, and many more were traumatized. History, of course, shows two sides of every story-- guess which one we heard?
The facts, however, remain that genocide was carried out with Nazi like racist ideologies and use of the most painful killing methods available --usually clubs and machetes (a farmer's only tools). The worst part is that the masses-- not just soldiers-- were involved. Most western nations dismissed it as only “tribal warfare.” We wonder what will be uncovered in ten years about the things that are taking place right now.......
After a slow afternoon, we had a nice dinner, thanks to those Belgian colonialists. There we met a young lady from Minnesota whose husband was born in Sheldon. She was leading a spiritual pilgrimage with a local genocide survivor and author....,small world!
In Kabale, we met another of Sarah's friends, a local professor of Environmental Economics, Dr. Wilson, and were impressed by his deep convictions and his generosity. Whatever stereotypes of “African men” are out there-- we have found individuals to beat them all!
Enjoyment of the long lunch with Dr. Wilson left us a little late crossing into Rwanda, where moaning on Martha's part (and cash under the table) helped speed the immigration process (we found that back brace and cane were helpful here, as at Disney World and airports). As we switched to the other side of the road, Sarah became very serious and told us the Rwanda “rules:”
1.No mentioning of the president's name-- we didn't know it anyway
2.No mentioning of the two tribes involved in the Genocide-- we didn't know those either.
3.No littering-- and the thin police with huge machine guns all around ensured adherence
- --to the above our driver added
4.No bribery, and the worst one:
5.No partying in night clubs past midnight-- I guess everyone has a cross to bear!
Our accomodations (Kigali)) were VERY basic. Hotel prices here are exponential-- room= x; self contained room =x2 ; self contained room with hot water.... you get the picture. Thursday, we wasted half of the morning following three “would be” guides (whom we paid) and a bit too much petrol ( 3$ per litre!) to find the Kigali Genocide Memorial..
What can we say? In a nation of 7 million people, 1 million were slaughtered, 2 million were displaced, and many more were traumatized. History, of course, shows two sides of every story-- guess which one we heard?
The facts, however, remain that genocide was carried out with Nazi like racist ideologies and use of the most painful killing methods available --usually clubs and machetes (a farmer's only tools). The worst part is that the masses-- not just soldiers-- were involved. Most western nations dismissed it as only “tribal warfare.” We wonder what will be uncovered in ten years about the things that are taking place right now.......
After a slow afternoon, we had a nice dinner, thanks to those Belgian colonialists. There we met a young lady from Minnesota whose husband was born in Sheldon. She was leading a spiritual pilgrimage with a local genocide survivor and author....,small world!
Which doctor is witch?
Tuesday, August 16
We headed south for Kabale, where we met a colleague of Sarah-- M.J. a 70 plus lady with the energy of a 39 y/o. She was a nurse for three branches of the military and did her fair share in civilian hospitals, too! She has been doing outreach for a Ugandan hospital for the past two years-- her favorite activities include catching men, sequestered in drinking halls because of rain and forcing them to talk about family violence and HIV. She also explained her methods of wound and burn care using readily available banana leaves. Did we mention that she holds regular educational meetings with local witch doctors? We wonder who is learning from whom. After lunch she gave us a tour of the hospital. Our eyes were not much stimulated, tiny ward after tiny ward, but our olfactory senses were overwhelmed. Standards were supposed to be better than most! MJ says it is much better than dodging bullets while nursing for the American Refugee Committee in Southern Sudan.
After leaving her, we proceeded to a “landing”on Lake Bunyoni where we met one of Sarah's friends who took us with his boat to the Byoona Amagara island where we spent the night. Sarah had proposed making the crossing in a dugout (Ugandan style) canoe, But GPZ put the ca-bosh on that.......We have a will, but are not quite ready for it's reading!
As soon as we hit the island, a downpour made the ascension of 5 sets of of “steps....African style”, a little difficult, especially for GM- Martha. Not to mention the fact that all stairs we have encountered thus far are uneven. No wonder average life expectancy here is 55! We arrived wet and cold to a little hut where everything was done “environmentally friendly”-- a grand idea until you realize that the solar powered lights, water pump, and water heater all function miserably sans sunshine
The next morning, the helpful staff heated water on the stove (the solar heater had not yet geared up) and tried to affix a bucket shower overhead. Before we got to use it, it came crashing down , to their embarrassment and to our chagrin. They didn't understand that the tiny timbers up there wouldn't hold the weight of a “lard can” full of water. The delay from those shenanigans gave the sun a bit of time to warm our water and we showered without hypothermia .
Later, a tour of the continent's deepest lake revealed beautiful scenery and a way of life for people using dugout canoes to get back and forth from their fields. Especially interesting was
“Punishment island”, where unintentional mothers were stranded and left to starve. Alternatively, men without enough cows for proper bride purchase, could pick them up, making it “Discount Island.”
We headed south for Kabale, where we met a colleague of Sarah-- M.J. a 70 plus lady with the energy of a 39 y/o. She was a nurse for three branches of the military and did her fair share in civilian hospitals, too! She has been doing outreach for a Ugandan hospital for the past two years-- her favorite activities include catching men, sequestered in drinking halls because of rain and forcing them to talk about family violence and HIV. She also explained her methods of wound and burn care using readily available banana leaves. Did we mention that she holds regular educational meetings with local witch doctors? We wonder who is learning from whom. After lunch she gave us a tour of the hospital. Our eyes were not much stimulated, tiny ward after tiny ward, but our olfactory senses were overwhelmed. Standards were supposed to be better than most! MJ says it is much better than dodging bullets while nursing for the American Refugee Committee in Southern Sudan.
After leaving her, we proceeded to a “landing”on Lake Bunyoni where we met one of Sarah's friends who took us with his boat to the Byoona Amagara island where we spent the night. Sarah had proposed making the crossing in a dugout (Ugandan style) canoe, But GPZ put the ca-bosh on that.......We have a will, but are not quite ready for it's reading!
As soon as we hit the island, a downpour made the ascension of 5 sets of of “steps....African style”, a little difficult, especially for GM- Martha. Not to mention the fact that all stairs we have encountered thus far are uneven. No wonder average life expectancy here is 55! We arrived wet and cold to a little hut where everything was done “environmentally friendly”-- a grand idea until you realize that the solar powered lights, water pump, and water heater all function miserably sans sunshine
The next morning, the helpful staff heated water on the stove (the solar heater had not yet geared up) and tried to affix a bucket shower overhead. Before we got to use it, it came crashing down , to their embarrassment and to our chagrin. They didn't understand that the tiny timbers up there wouldn't hold the weight of a “lard can” full of water. The delay from those shenanigans gave the sun a bit of time to warm our water and we showered without hypothermia .
Later, a tour of the continent's deepest lake revealed beautiful scenery and a way of life for people using dugout canoes to get back and forth from their fields. Especially interesting was
“Punishment island”, where unintentional mothers were stranded and left to starve. Alternatively, men without enough cows for proper bride purchase, could pick them up, making it “Discount Island.”
Thursday, August 18, 2011
More Smells than Whistles and Bells-- Ugandan hospitals
August 15
We then went to Ibanda and stayed at the Catholic parish there. We were a bit disappointed by the lack of hot water. Sarah didn't seem to notice-- she was thrilled to find water in the first place. Outside of her little bathing pail, that is.
Monday morning, we toured the Kagongo (Ibanda) hospital and were graciously hosted by Sr. Vennie, who gave us an excellent tour. We learned that 50% of births there were done by Caesarean section (although that cost a steep $15), and that malaria, hypertension, and diabetes were common. Not much congestive heart failure, however, made it in. Most of the children's ward consisted of malaria related problems, except for a young boy with a perforated gut (Choleara).
We then saw the hospital's babies home, where about 15 freshly washed and vaseline polished naked toddlers met us. We learned that many of their mothers were dead due to birth complications. Others were abandoned by roadsides or down latrines. Extended families usually accept them after the age of three, when they begin carrying water and finding firewood.
We then drove to the second largest town in Uganda, Mbarara, where the sole western restaurant still served an awfully Ugandan potato salad and a meatloaf- like burger. Sarah thought it was great because her already low standards have by now collapsed under the weight of mounds of steamed bananas.
That evening, we stayed in the Rhino hotel in town where, despite undulating electricity, we had 1 Tilapia, chopped in three, with potatoes and rice (the exact order). There had to be two starches, only one was unheard of. While she munched contentedly on her fish head, I told Sarah about my medical experiences with fish bone retractions.
Tuesday morning, after a late start and Al Jazeera news (another of Sarah's favorites), we headed to a center for handicapped children. We were impressed by the acumen of the professional staff-- which included many more ancillary medical personnel than medical doctors. After a short talk with the occupational therapist, the administrator took us on a short tour. Local people believe that evil spirits on the mothers side cause disability. In turn, mothers isolate or starve their “special needs” children. This was deeply disturbing.
In the Bush
August 14
II In the “Bush”
Our arrival at the receptive St. Catherines School for Girls, was the highlight thus far. The Sisters welcomed us warmly and fed us a nutritious meal of “you guessed it”. Our first night (ever) at a convent reminded us of Sarah's “spartan” existence for the past two years. The whole “setup” had but one modern toilet (to be flushed with a bucket) NOT conveniently located. Sarah had never used that toilet-- she had a hole in the ground outside. I think she forgot how to use anything else. Long travel and jet jag resulted in sound sleep, however.
Sunday's Mass was a joyous-- but loooong affair, with a portion set aside to honor Sarah. We were indeed proud of her and happy we could join her for this occasion. She was he recipient of gifts and praises. Her “farewell” speech was in the Runyankore language, but we certainly understood the gifts and love she received. We then ate (ditto) with the Sisters. Again they expressed their love for her and after packing up, we departed as did she for the last time. She felt it was a good way to have “closure” to depart where she had spent the past two years.
II In the “Bush”
Our arrival at the receptive St. Catherines School for Girls, was the highlight thus far. The Sisters welcomed us warmly and fed us a nutritious meal of “you guessed it”. Our first night (ever) at a convent reminded us of Sarah's “spartan” existence for the past two years. The whole “setup” had but one modern toilet (to be flushed with a bucket) NOT conveniently located. Sarah had never used that toilet-- she had a hole in the ground outside. I think she forgot how to use anything else. Long travel and jet jag resulted in sound sleep, however.
Sunday's Mass was a joyous-- but loooong affair, with a portion set aside to honor Sarah. We were indeed proud of her and happy we could join her for this occasion. She was he recipient of gifts and praises. Her “farewell” speech was in the Runyankore language, but we certainly understood the gifts and love she received. We then ate (ditto) with the Sisters. Again they expressed their love for her and after packing up, we departed as did she for the last time. She felt it was a good way to have “closure” to depart where she had spent the past two years.
Uganda- U got it -- By Sarah and Grandpa Z
Uganda, “U got it”--written jointly by Sarah and Grandpa Z
August 12-13
Left home in usual flurry of confusion and disorganization. Two fairly flawless overnight flights (Chicago-Frankfort & Frank.-Addis Ababa) brought us to E. Africa concluding with a short flight to Kampala, Uganda. At that point the journey deteriorated a bit. Sarah was not there to meet us, (slight email discrepancy), our bags did not arrive (somehow, misrouted to Johannesburg), and the final “blow”, my phone was dead, therefore Sarah's phone number was unavailable. However a helpful young man assisted me in finding power to charge phone, and after “paperwork” for missing bags had been completed, we called Sarah and eventually got “on track” to first night's lodging and food.
Speaking of food, Ugandans love starch! The complexity of complex carbs doesn't phase them. For the last six meals we have had rice, potatoes, yams, cassava, millet, and other 'roots'. Usually accompanied by a little meat, soup and or broth, plus cooked and raw cabbage (oh yes, occasional tomatoes). The conclusion of each meal with fresh sweet pineapple, however, usually prompts a feeling of forgiveness for the earlier part.
Saturday we made the 300 Km trek to Kazo (Sarah's home for the past 2 years) The Toyota van was more comfortable than the Ugandan roads!! Before even reaching the bathroom, we were scurried off to a local farm. John, a rather amazing man, and his wife Ester, greeted us with a little too abundant of a Ugandan lunch. We soon learned that everything had either bones or seeds-- other than the boiled intestines, Sarah's favorite. A vicarious entrepreneur, John narrated his story (in English) about how he began as an uneducated brick layer to become the present owner of his own contracting company and hardware shop, as well as the proprietor of a large and progressive (by Ugandan standards) farm. For the first time, we saw how pineapples, papaya, bananas, coffee, and cassava, grew. We learned that the banana tree sacrifices it's life for one stalk of bananas. Don't worry-- it will grow back in a year. We also saw the home of a family whose ethnic group lives on milk, and their ten year old child that had never eaten solid food (anemia anyone?).
John's coffee, pine tree and sorghum pursuits were definitely ambitious, but in a country with 18% percent inflation, he had the most stable form of investment available (speaking of the inflation, no wonder banks here can pay 14% interest-- heck you can make money by taking out a 10% interest loan!). He also has several long horned local cattle, with a few fresian (holstein) heifers. He is currently updating his breed for better milk production. The most impressive thing was the equipment-- hand held hoes and a machete. There was no power, running water, or motorized vehicle. John does have a motorcycle with which to bring milk into town every morning-- before going to his hardware shop.
That night we also lived without running water or power. At least we weren't so poor we didn't have a pot to pee in-- but Sarah no longer has a bathing bucket.
August 12-13
Left home in usual flurry of confusion and disorganization. Two fairly flawless overnight flights (Chicago-Frankfort & Frank.-Addis Ababa) brought us to E. Africa concluding with a short flight to Kampala, Uganda. At that point the journey deteriorated a bit. Sarah was not there to meet us, (slight email discrepancy), our bags did not arrive (somehow, misrouted to Johannesburg), and the final “blow”, my phone was dead, therefore Sarah's phone number was unavailable. However a helpful young man assisted me in finding power to charge phone, and after “paperwork” for missing bags had been completed, we called Sarah and eventually got “on track” to first night's lodging and food.
Speaking of food, Ugandans love starch! The complexity of complex carbs doesn't phase them. For the last six meals we have had rice, potatoes, yams, cassava, millet, and other 'roots'. Usually accompanied by a little meat, soup and or broth, plus cooked and raw cabbage (oh yes, occasional tomatoes). The conclusion of each meal with fresh sweet pineapple, however, usually prompts a feeling of forgiveness for the earlier part.
Saturday we made the 300 Km trek to Kazo (Sarah's home for the past 2 years) The Toyota van was more comfortable than the Ugandan roads!! Before even reaching the bathroom, we were scurried off to a local farm. John, a rather amazing man, and his wife Ester, greeted us with a little too abundant of a Ugandan lunch. We soon learned that everything had either bones or seeds-- other than the boiled intestines, Sarah's favorite. A vicarious entrepreneur, John narrated his story (in English) about how he began as an uneducated brick layer to become the present owner of his own contracting company and hardware shop, as well as the proprietor of a large and progressive (by Ugandan standards) farm. For the first time, we saw how pineapples, papaya, bananas, coffee, and cassava, grew. We learned that the banana tree sacrifices it's life for one stalk of bananas. Don't worry-- it will grow back in a year. We also saw the home of a family whose ethnic group lives on milk, and their ten year old child that had never eaten solid food (anemia anyone?).
John's coffee, pine tree and sorghum pursuits were definitely ambitious, but in a country with 18% percent inflation, he had the most stable form of investment available (speaking of the inflation, no wonder banks here can pay 14% interest-- heck you can make money by taking out a 10% interest loan!). He also has several long horned local cattle, with a few fresian (holstein) heifers. He is currently updating his breed for better milk production. The most impressive thing was the equipment-- hand held hoes and a machete. There was no power, running water, or motorized vehicle. John does have a motorcycle with which to bring milk into town every morning-- before going to his hardware shop.
That night we also lived without running water or power. At least we weren't so poor we didn't have a pot to pee in-- but Sarah no longer has a bathing bucket.
Monday, July 18, 2011
The Beauty and the Bruises
Yesterday, a friend, Jill, and I decided to hike to the top of a mountain/hill and look down from there on our past two years. After four hours of bright morning hiking, we reached the top, and were able to sit on the edge of our world. It looked like a movie screen surrounding us as we looked down. We talked about this experience, about how we have had so many different seasons here-- about the lack of consistency in anything. Laying on our backs to the clouds, and looking at green, stony hills of cows, we thought we would really miss this pace...... that is, until we ran out of water. Sun beaten and thinking about the Somali refugees, we had to go through two dry villages before someone was selling drinking water. As the people flocked to look at us, I tried to explain that we were not elephants in a park....When we finally reached Jill's home, in the evening, there was also no water. Dizzy, I dragged the jerry can to a community borehole and waited for the intravenous trickle to fill the 20 litre jug. Then I went to the latrine, stubbed my head on the short door frame, and reflected on the brown finger smears all over the walls (when people don't have toilet paper...). and started to cry. I finally got my bucket bath, in which I removed one layer of dirt-- but not all-- and we went to a local restaurant for dinner. Whoops-- they had no food. Thighs still throbbing, we went to a different restaurant, where a young man was very intent on talking with us. Over fried goat meat (bones and ligaments) and fries in the dark, I told him how we were Zimbabwean crocodile farmers and how lucky he is to be in Uganda where the government doesn't steal your land or kill your family.... and a bit about the basics of croc farming. This morning I rode in a 14-seater minivan with 24 other people, where a half hour ride stretched into one and a half hours and a pervasive smell of smoke and bad milk was adding to my nausea. Finally I got out, flagged down a car and hitch- hiked the rest of the way. All so I could communicate with you all. There are things that I will and others that I will not miss.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)