Coming out of foothills
Glance behind
Majesty
Now, strain
all I see
air
I am where?
Sunday, October 2, 2011
Last Day
I was in the pyramids, looking at mummies with missing noses-- someone told me they were WWII soldiers – and elephants were running around “Sarah, do you still want to go running? it is 6:20!” “Where am I?” Oh yeah, the village-- starting my last day. My friend, Leah and I pulled ourselves together for jogging. On the road, a group of elementary boys laughing and shouting “muzungu” got a run for their money. I chased them down and told them I was going to eat them. Last night, when a kid asked me for money, I grabbed him by the shirt, pulled his dirty little face up to mine and explained-- in the local language-- why that was a very bad idea. Further down the road, a group of women smiled and genuinely seemed happy to see us-- nice to see women brave enough to run.
We got home and took our bucket baths-- I can bathe, wash and condition my hair, and scrub the calluses off of my feet with 3 liters of water! Over our oatmeal, peanut butter, and honey breakfast, we talked about kashi and raisin bran-- ahhhhh-- made me so hungry I ate a second bowl. I then wondered what I would do today. Would I visit a village savings group this morning? Would I do monitoring in the afternoon? It was already 9:30, so the man I was supposed to meet at 8 was not yet there. Every day really is the same. As I stood on the front porch, wondering what to do, a group of students carried a screaming, quivering student by. “She has demons-- as usual” they reported.
Within a few hours, the demons were out and by three (yes, 7 hours late), I was in the village, doing a Typhoid talk. In the between, however, some people surprised me with gifts of fabric (even though my goodbye party is over) and I had a nice talk with a friend. It never changes!
We got home and took our bucket baths-- I can bathe, wash and condition my hair, and scrub the calluses off of my feet with 3 liters of water! Over our oatmeal, peanut butter, and honey breakfast, we talked about kashi and raisin bran-- ahhhhh-- made me so hungry I ate a second bowl. I then wondered what I would do today. Would I visit a village savings group this morning? Would I do monitoring in the afternoon? It was already 9:30, so the man I was supposed to meet at 8 was not yet there. Every day really is the same. As I stood on the front porch, wondering what to do, a group of students carried a screaming, quivering student by. “She has demons-- as usual” they reported.
Within a few hours, the demons were out and by three (yes, 7 hours late), I was in the village, doing a Typhoid talk. In the between, however, some people surprised me with gifts of fabric (even though my goodbye party is over) and I had a nice talk with a friend. It never changes!
Growth
Jokes aside, there are a few good things that I learned in Uganda, which frame new commitments in life. I hope that these changes for the positive will not be reversed when I hit home.
1. Natural lifestyle. I can make bread and cakes from flour and sugar, cheese from a cow, and guacamole of about 3 varieties. When I went home for David's wedding, I could taste the fake and the corn syrup in frozen pizza and a dairy queen blizzard. When I tried eating a cinnamon bun, the sweetness made me sick. It may require more creativity and time, but I want to stay as natural as possible.
2. Environmental sustainability. Living so close to the Earth and depending on nature for everything. Like, hmmmm, should I wash my clothes? It hasn't rained, so there is no water-- or it's raining now so they won't dry. Or, the school closed early because the crops dried up and there wasn't enough food. These are everyday occurrences. I want to maintain a commitment to sustainable decision making when I get home-- especially with water and fuel (after my first long shower to wash off the grime and riding a plane home, that is). I don't need to live in a big place and I hope to take public transport and have a natural foods option. Furthermore, I love what Mayor Nutter is doing with green surfaces in Philly and what new LEED housing ideas are doing. Who knows, by the time I need a car, I might drive hydrogen- powered.
3. Deeper spiritual connections. I have been introduced to a whole new world of spirituality with Catholicism. Nouwen, Merton, St. Francis-- solitude and deeper prayer. The nuns are so hard working and happy and kind because time in prayer is their mainstay. Poverty, celibacy, and obedience-- basically denial of all that humanity craves. What do they gain? A lot of joy, for one thing, and more care for other people.
4. Human color and diversity. The Peace Corps is so diverse and colorful, it adds a great mosaic backdrop to my life. I want to continue being a part of an interesting community of people at home, whether in a city neighborhood or a small town.
5. Not worry about being “late” for something in life. I met a priest who started first grade at 17 and was ordained in his late thirties. Several people, due to family delays, etc., don't do things at the exactly correct time here. But who cares? You can't let past problems ruin you because you're afraid of a bit of delay. Besides, life is about the journey, so enjoy the scenic route!
6. Realize that every post is equal, but you have to make it your own. Some peace corps volunteers work in high powered offices and have apartments in town with running water. Ok, not in Uganda, but I'm sure it happens somewhere. Others are deep in the village, making stoves out of cow dung and baking their own bread or living on cassava flour. In the end, both are valuable and meaningful. I am returning home with an idea of a post- bac then med. School, so I have a plan. But if there are some kinks in the road, I can still have meaning in life. Plan B is bee- keeping and surrogate motherhood and Plan C. is returning to Uganda and becoming a wedding singer. So- no worries, right?
7. Commitment to the team. I did not expect other volunteers to be so wonderful, but they have been a big part of why Peace Corps is great. Sharing beer and goat's meat, jamming to local tunes, or climbing in the hills, time with my fellow peace corps volunteers, no matter how different we are from each other, has been extraordinary. When I return, I want to keep up with friends and continue in the spirit of camaraderie with my new team mates—ok, minus the goat meat.
1. Natural lifestyle. I can make bread and cakes from flour and sugar, cheese from a cow, and guacamole of about 3 varieties. When I went home for David's wedding, I could taste the fake and the corn syrup in frozen pizza and a dairy queen blizzard. When I tried eating a cinnamon bun, the sweetness made me sick. It may require more creativity and time, but I want to stay as natural as possible.
2. Environmental sustainability. Living so close to the Earth and depending on nature for everything. Like, hmmmm, should I wash my clothes? It hasn't rained, so there is no water-- or it's raining now so they won't dry. Or, the school closed early because the crops dried up and there wasn't enough food. These are everyday occurrences. I want to maintain a commitment to sustainable decision making when I get home-- especially with water and fuel (after my first long shower to wash off the grime and riding a plane home, that is). I don't need to live in a big place and I hope to take public transport and have a natural foods option. Furthermore, I love what Mayor Nutter is doing with green surfaces in Philly and what new LEED housing ideas are doing. Who knows, by the time I need a car, I might drive hydrogen- powered.
3. Deeper spiritual connections. I have been introduced to a whole new world of spirituality with Catholicism. Nouwen, Merton, St. Francis-- solitude and deeper prayer. The nuns are so hard working and happy and kind because time in prayer is their mainstay. Poverty, celibacy, and obedience-- basically denial of all that humanity craves. What do they gain? A lot of joy, for one thing, and more care for other people.
4. Human color and diversity. The Peace Corps is so diverse and colorful, it adds a great mosaic backdrop to my life. I want to continue being a part of an interesting community of people at home, whether in a city neighborhood or a small town.
5. Not worry about being “late” for something in life. I met a priest who started first grade at 17 and was ordained in his late thirties. Several people, due to family delays, etc., don't do things at the exactly correct time here. But who cares? You can't let past problems ruin you because you're afraid of a bit of delay. Besides, life is about the journey, so enjoy the scenic route!
6. Realize that every post is equal, but you have to make it your own. Some peace corps volunteers work in high powered offices and have apartments in town with running water. Ok, not in Uganda, but I'm sure it happens somewhere. Others are deep in the village, making stoves out of cow dung and baking their own bread or living on cassava flour. In the end, both are valuable and meaningful. I am returning home with an idea of a post- bac then med. School, so I have a plan. But if there are some kinks in the road, I can still have meaning in life. Plan B is bee- keeping and surrogate motherhood and Plan C. is returning to Uganda and becoming a wedding singer. So- no worries, right?
7. Commitment to the team. I did not expect other volunteers to be so wonderful, but they have been a big part of why Peace Corps is great. Sharing beer and goat's meat, jamming to local tunes, or climbing in the hills, time with my fellow peace corps volunteers, no matter how different we are from each other, has been extraordinary. When I return, I want to keep up with friends and continue in the spirit of camaraderie with my new team mates—ok, minus the goat meat.
Friday, September 2, 2011
Serendipity
This last month, I decided to move to a hospital and try to see if this medicine thing is right or not. At first, I had grand illusions of shadowing a doctor friend of my parents the whole time. A fellow PCV had become an impromptu scrub nurse, and I thought “That should get me used to blood!” The doctor, however, was not interested in another scrub nurse and was combating an area typhoid epidemic, so the best thing I could do was to stay out of the way. Some German med. Students (all of 21 years old, impossibly thin, and in their final year) could not conceal a slight repulsion toward my lack of usefulness and my misdirected life. I don’t blame them-- I had no idea what I was going to do with my life at 10 yrs old.
Three hours later, I found myself scared to ask the nurse’s aide; what is a normal blood pressure reading? Boredom ensued-- you can only make so much of reading patient charts all day and trying (unsuccessfully) to look intelligent as you follow a stick thin med. student around.
I came home to a fellow pcv’s house (for whom I am puppy and cat sitting……….) and thought, a whole month of this? Good enough it was a Friday. That evening, I met some nuns nearby. A short conversation about the typhoid epidemic and they wanted me to speak in church on Sunday. I quickly put some local language teaching materials together then talked with nearly 100 people. I was then asked to return for women’s groups on Tuesday -- where I met about 80 women. The parish development coordinator found me and asked if I had free time (you bet I did!!!) and if I could climb into some mountain villages to talk there-- again a resounding YES! The next day, mountains, and then the next, a catechists’ meeting (with representatives from each village). Now I have speaking engagements sufficient to fill the next three weeks, training community groups, from savings associations, to agricultural trainings, to churches, to prevent typhoid. The material is basic-- water sterilization, water protection, basic hygiene, signs/ symptoms and treatment, but it is not yet widely known. I had to say a little prayer, thank you, God for your Church!. Of course I’m not doing anything special like taking blood pressure but, hey, I’m happy.
Three hours later, I found myself scared to ask the nurse’s aide; what is a normal blood pressure reading? Boredom ensued-- you can only make so much of reading patient charts all day and trying (unsuccessfully) to look intelligent as you follow a stick thin med. student around.
I came home to a fellow pcv’s house (for whom I am puppy and cat sitting……….) and thought, a whole month of this? Good enough it was a Friday. That evening, I met some nuns nearby. A short conversation about the typhoid epidemic and they wanted me to speak in church on Sunday. I quickly put some local language teaching materials together then talked with nearly 100 people. I was then asked to return for women’s groups on Tuesday -- where I met about 80 women. The parish development coordinator found me and asked if I had free time (you bet I did!!!) and if I could climb into some mountain villages to talk there-- again a resounding YES! The next day, mountains, and then the next, a catechists’ meeting (with representatives from each village). Now I have speaking engagements sufficient to fill the next three weeks, training community groups, from savings associations, to agricultural trainings, to churches, to prevent typhoid. The material is basic-- water sterilization, water protection, basic hygiene, signs/ symptoms and treatment, but it is not yet widely known. I had to say a little prayer, thank you, God for your Church!. Of course I’m not doing anything special like taking blood pressure but, hey, I’m happy.
Monday, August 29, 2011
Grandma didn't sleep a wink!
Tuesday, August 23
Our nearly final day. From among the multiple choices of safaris, mountain biking, bungee jumping, rapid shooting, and kayaking, we settled on a “family float trip” down the Nile-- for the “not so adventurous or maybe not so tall.” We knew it would be serious when after donning our life jackets over GM- Martha's turtle shell, we were placed on a raft-- no seats, no seatbelts and were told to hang on. Our guide made sure that the rapids were not as rapid as we feared-- as a result we only lost one, well maybe two people. The guide did several back flips off of the raft, and Sarah could not resist the temptation to have one more swim down the Nile-- Shistosomiasis here we come! The entire episode was scary or maybe fun enough to keep GM- Martha awake the whole time. She was even more awake when climbing 6 flights of steps afterward. At least it was not rainy as previously on Bunyoni. This was followed by a long lunch (who knew it took 30 min. to prepare a B.L.A.T. – A for Avocado?) and a drive to the source of the Nile. Another several flights of stairs led us to the point were Speke “discovered” the Nile's source. This was not far, however, from where GP- Ronald and Sarah had discovered Nile beer. The climb up necessitated pushing and pulling GM- Martha through a crowd of vendors, whom she tempted by gazing longingly at their goods. Rest in the afternoon and a nice fish dinner(without bones!!) in the evening made us feel like staying a bit longer!
Our nearly final day. From among the multiple choices of safaris, mountain biking, bungee jumping, rapid shooting, and kayaking, we settled on a “family float trip” down the Nile-- for the “not so adventurous or maybe not so tall.” We knew it would be serious when after donning our life jackets over GM- Martha's turtle shell, we were placed on a raft-- no seats, no seatbelts and were told to hang on. Our guide made sure that the rapids were not as rapid as we feared-- as a result we only lost one, well maybe two people. The guide did several back flips off of the raft, and Sarah could not resist the temptation to have one more swim down the Nile-- Shistosomiasis here we come! The entire episode was scary or maybe fun enough to keep GM- Martha awake the whole time. She was even more awake when climbing 6 flights of steps afterward. At least it was not rainy as previously on Bunyoni. This was followed by a long lunch (who knew it took 30 min. to prepare a B.L.A.T. – A for Avocado?) and a drive to the source of the Nile. Another several flights of stairs led us to the point were Speke “discovered” the Nile's source. This was not far, however, from where GP- Ronald and Sarah had discovered Nile beer. The climb up necessitated pushing and pulling GM- Martha through a crowd of vendors, whom she tempted by gazing longingly at their goods. Rest in the afternoon and a nice fish dinner(without bones!!) in the evening made us feel like staying a bit longer!
Everything (and everyone) here is fertile!
Monday, August 22
We drove back across Uganda, a distance that the guide book said was an “easy” 350 km from Fort Portal to Jinja. We were reminded of the different opinions of honesty that exist in this world. Along the road, of course, we saw more than our fare share of overloaded motorcycles (boda- bodas) and stuffed taxis. We knew we were passing some wealthier communities when the daily count of tractors shot up from 0 to 12.
We also saw children, small, ragged, and usually dirty. Sarah reminded us that over 50% of the population is under 14. Makes sense when you realize that the birthrate is still 7 babies per woman. Sarah says that everything in Uganda is fertile, from the seed- full oranges and watermelons, to the land, to the people. For example, there are three planting seasons a year, and it only takes 3 years for a Eucalyptus tree to go from seedling to maturity, for pine trees, it is 24 years.
The effects of the population growth were increasingly evident as we neared Kampala-- almost every square inch was being farmed, brick kilns and construction sites were numerous, and both forests and wetlands were being eaten away by human activity. After crossing the sprawling outskirts of Kampala and the beginning of the Nile, we reached our destination.
Historic Jinja town, built in the early 20th century has the oldest (and most European) buildings Sarah had seen for a while, as well as a thriving tourist market. Dinner proved more treacherous than the day's potholes-- after finding our first and second choices of eating holes closed, we dined at our guest house. Here, we thoroughly and repeatedly explained to our server that we wanted one pizza, with cheese, vegetables, and sausage (it was a pizzeria, after all). In about 20 minutes, he reappeared, with not one, not two, put three pizzas-- one cheese, one sausage, and one vegetables. We had the courage to refuse one and found the appetite for the other two (genuine sacrifice).
We drove back across Uganda, a distance that the guide book said was an “easy” 350 km from Fort Portal to Jinja. We were reminded of the different opinions of honesty that exist in this world. Along the road, of course, we saw more than our fare share of overloaded motorcycles (boda- bodas) and stuffed taxis. We knew we were passing some wealthier communities when the daily count of tractors shot up from 0 to 12.
We also saw children, small, ragged, and usually dirty. Sarah reminded us that over 50% of the population is under 14. Makes sense when you realize that the birthrate is still 7 babies per woman. Sarah says that everything in Uganda is fertile, from the seed- full oranges and watermelons, to the land, to the people. For example, there are three planting seasons a year, and it only takes 3 years for a Eucalyptus tree to go from seedling to maturity, for pine trees, it is 24 years.
The effects of the population growth were increasingly evident as we neared Kampala-- almost every square inch was being farmed, brick kilns and construction sites were numerous, and both forests and wetlands were being eaten away by human activity. After crossing the sprawling outskirts of Kampala and the beginning of the Nile, we reached our destination.
Historic Jinja town, built in the early 20th century has the oldest (and most European) buildings Sarah had seen for a while, as well as a thriving tourist market. Dinner proved more treacherous than the day's potholes-- after finding our first and second choices of eating holes closed, we dined at our guest house. Here, we thoroughly and repeatedly explained to our server that we wanted one pizza, with cheese, vegetables, and sausage (it was a pizzeria, after all). In about 20 minutes, he reappeared, with not one, not two, put three pizzas-- one cheese, one sausage, and one vegetables. We had the courage to refuse one and found the appetite for the other two (genuine sacrifice).
Lions Tigers and Typhoid-- oh my!
Saturday-Sunday 24-26 Aug.
We drove up to Kasese, for an afternoon lunch at a Safari Lodge followed by a boat ride on Lake Edward in the Queen Elizabeth National Park. We saw plenty of hippos and buffalo, along with a crocodile and more than our share of birds. Oh yes, a couple elephants also! During a game drive afterward, we chanced upon a lion, some local deer, and a leopard. Although we are ok, our cameras fell prey to too many pictures (without enough power) but our driver saved the day with his. Oh my!
We eventually arrived at Kagando, the hospital where David & Helen Lyth serve. These are missionary friends of Mark and Lori from Bahrain days, whom we last saw 17 y/a. Helen served us a delicious dinner which was followed by a nice evening of “catchup” and reminiscence. Dr. Dave, (a urologist) is currently battling a Typhoid epidemic and has been sleeping very little. The disease sets up a significant immune response and lymphadenopathy results in creating bowel ischemia, which leads to gangrenous gut perforations. These need immediate surgery.
Dave told about an energetic volunteer from America who, with the help of an equally bright Australian, gave great assistance in the design and execution of a research study. It turns out that the young man is Chris De Boer, from NW IA....”small world”!! The study involved personal visits to the families of the last 100 bowel perforation patients, resulting in proof that typhoid was the causative factor, and also which “risky hygienic practices” led to the epidemic. As a result of the study, Dr. Lyth and his team are now calling in both national and international groups to combat it. This was much more exciting than spotting a lion lying on a stone! We were again reminded of Uganda's 55 yr life expectancy as we walked around the hospital.....Malaria, Typhoid Cholera, etc!
Up & At'em Sunday morning for 8:00 am worship at the hospital's chapel! Again the good music was the only saving grace in a 2 hr. long unintelligible (language wise) service. This was followed by “tea”, (remember we are visiting “brits”) and a tour of the (another) hospital. Originally a converted Leper Colony, it has grown to a significant health ministry of the Anglican Church. Dave was invited there 2 y/a because of his expertise in repairing vesicovaginal fistulae. These are a result of complicated OB deliveries of the small village women and are especially common in that particular ethnic group of Ugandans. After lunch, Helen brought us to what she thought would be a quiet stream and a nice walk. Local youth, however, had set up a tented disco and were blasting their music and driving about in motorcycles--- development? We also happened upon a coffee cooperative, where one of Sarah's Peace Corps colleagues worked. An example of grass- roots development, it showed how local coffee farmers pooled their resources to have greater control of their market, ultimately producing wonderful coffee, too!
We drove up to Kasese, for an afternoon lunch at a Safari Lodge followed by a boat ride on Lake Edward in the Queen Elizabeth National Park. We saw plenty of hippos and buffalo, along with a crocodile and more than our share of birds. Oh yes, a couple elephants also! During a game drive afterward, we chanced upon a lion, some local deer, and a leopard. Although we are ok, our cameras fell prey to too many pictures (without enough power) but our driver saved the day with his. Oh my!
We eventually arrived at Kagando, the hospital where David & Helen Lyth serve. These are missionary friends of Mark and Lori from Bahrain days, whom we last saw 17 y/a. Helen served us a delicious dinner which was followed by a nice evening of “catchup” and reminiscence. Dr. Dave, (a urologist) is currently battling a Typhoid epidemic and has been sleeping very little. The disease sets up a significant immune response and lymphadenopathy results in creating bowel ischemia, which leads to gangrenous gut perforations. These need immediate surgery.
Dave told about an energetic volunteer from America who, with the help of an equally bright Australian, gave great assistance in the design and execution of a research study. It turns out that the young man is Chris De Boer, from NW IA....”small world”!! The study involved personal visits to the families of the last 100 bowel perforation patients, resulting in proof that typhoid was the causative factor, and also which “risky hygienic practices” led to the epidemic. As a result of the study, Dr. Lyth and his team are now calling in both national and international groups to combat it. This was much more exciting than spotting a lion lying on a stone! We were again reminded of Uganda's 55 yr life expectancy as we walked around the hospital.....Malaria, Typhoid Cholera, etc!
Up & At'em Sunday morning for 8:00 am worship at the hospital's chapel! Again the good music was the only saving grace in a 2 hr. long unintelligible (language wise) service. This was followed by “tea”, (remember we are visiting “brits”) and a tour of the (another) hospital. Originally a converted Leper Colony, it has grown to a significant health ministry of the Anglican Church. Dave was invited there 2 y/a because of his expertise in repairing vesicovaginal fistulae. These are a result of complicated OB deliveries of the small village women and are especially common in that particular ethnic group of Ugandans. After lunch, Helen brought us to what she thought would be a quiet stream and a nice walk. Local youth, however, had set up a tented disco and were blasting their music and driving about in motorcycles--- development? We also happened upon a coffee cooperative, where one of Sarah's Peace Corps colleagues worked. An example of grass- roots development, it showed how local coffee farmers pooled their resources to have greater control of their market, ultimately producing wonderful coffee, too!
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